Integrating JPEGmini Pro to Lightroom Workflow

Although we have already published a detailed review of the JPEGmini Pro software a while ago, a number of readers have reached out to me, asking how to effectively use the software, specifically when extracting images for clients from Lightroom. I have now been using JPEGmini for over a year and both Lola and I have been extracting images from Lightroom in a specific way to get the highest quality JPEG images to our clients, while retaining the smallest file size possible. Previously, we would extract everything at particular resolutions (typically 2048 for smaller JPEGs and full size for print) using 100% JPEG compression for the full sized images for the best possible quality, but extracting hundreds and sometimes even thousands of images turned out to be a headache when it came to storage and file transmission. With JPEGmini, we were able to continue delivering the best images to our clients, with a much smaller footprint. This resulted in both time and cost savings in the long run for us, as we did not have to deal with time-consuming uploads and large USB drives. In this article, I will show how both Lola and I we have been utilizing JPEGmini as part of our Lightroom workflow.

First of all, in order to integrate JPEGmini into your Lightroom workflow, you will need the Pro version of the software – the regular version does not come with a Lightroom plugin. Once you download and install JPEGmini, you will have to add JPEGmini into your Lightroom through the Plug-in Manager, as detailed below:

  1. After JPEGmini Pro installation is complete, fire up Lightroom
  2. Once Lightroom opens up, go to File->Plug-in Manager
  3. Click the “Add” button on the left bottom corner of the Plug-in Manager window
  4. On a 64-bit version of Windows operating system, browse to C:\Program Files (x86)\ICVT\JPEGminiLightroomPlugin
  5. Left-click on the “jpegmini.lrplugin” folder once, then click the “Select Folder” button
  6. You will be presented with the following window:
    JPEGmini Lightroom Plugin
  7. Type in your activation code and click “Activate”
  8. Wait until the software is activated. When the process is complete, the text will change to “Activated”
  9. Click “Done” to close the Plug-in Manager window

The plugin is now up and running, and ready to be used.

From here, you will no longer need to worry about doing any extra work, aside from inserting JPEGmini into your Post-Process Actions. Launch the export window of Lightroom by pressing Ctrl+Shift+E (Command+Shift+E on Mac), then expand “JPEGmini” under “Post-Process Actions” on the left bottom side of the window and select the JPEGmini link. From there, click on the “Insert” button:

JPEGmini Pro Post Process Actions

After you do that, you will see that now you have a new section in the main window called “JPEGmini”, which now shows the JPEGmini Pro soda can:

JPEGmini Inserted

This means that the software optimization is now running, so every time you export an image, it will automatically be optimized for you.

Now the big question is, what Quality should you pick during the export process? Remember, JPEGmini is designed to optimize ANY JPEG compression. If you choose a lower quality during export, you will already have a smaller file and JPEGmini will do its best to optimize the image even further to get to a smaller JPEG file size. So if your aim is to provide the best possible image quality, whether you are providing the JPEG to your client, or publishing your work online and you do not want anyone to see JPEG artifacts, my recommendation would be to keep the Quality set to 100 and let JPEGmini handle the rest. This method has been working great for me and I typically choose Quality 100 in Lightroom export window now, unless I am uploading images to this website and I want to have even smaller file sizes.

Most social media websites like Facebook will be re-optimizing your images upon upload anyway, so if you use a quality setting of 100 with JPEGmini compressing the image, you will most likely have the least amount of artifacts once the images are processed by those extra compression engines.

Let’s take a look at how JPEGmini can help you save time and space. Here is the export of a single client shoot with a total of 84 JPEG images extracted in full resolution:

Exported Full JPEG

As you can see, that’s a total of 1.8 GB of files, which is a lot for 84 images. That’s because some of the images were stitched from multiple RAW files and the images contained a lot of detail. Let’s now take a look at what JPEGmini was able to do after applying it on export, with the same Quality setting of 100:

Exported Compressed Full JPEG

At around 600 MB, that’s a very significant reduction in total size from 1.8 GB – I now have 3x smaller images. Uploading this to my Dropbox is going to take a lot less time and I won’t have to worry about running out of space both locally and in the cloud when continuously dealing with delivering image content to my clients.

Hope this helps – if you have any questions, please let me know in the comments section below!

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Why I focus on the details and 5 ways you can, too

I’ll admit it. As a creative and overall “type B” personality, I am more of a big picture person and not very detail-oriented in my day to day life.

There is an exception to this though, and that exception is photography. When it comes to photography, I become very detail-oriented from what and how I shoot to my meticulous editing style at times.

One day I thought to myself, ‘why do capturing the details matter so much to me when I am shooting’?

I find myself constantly trying to capture the little things both in my client sessions as well as in my personal life. The answer was actually quite simple; because the small and seemingly insignificant details are the things I cherish the most and want to remember years from now when I look back at these images.

When I look at old family photographs, it’s not the memory of where we were or what we were doing in the images that I enjoy seeing most. It’s the expression of pure joy and love on my father’s face when he was playing with me as a baby. It’s the deep-set wrinkles on my grandfather’s hand I held while crossing the street. It’s the color and texture of the fabric on that favorite childhood dress that I wore over and over until I couldn’t even zip it up anymore because I had outgrown it. You know, the one that fanned out perfectly when twirling around the family room.

When I look at these images of days that have passed, seeing those details are what bring me right back to those very moments that were frozen in time and my senses become heightened. I can instantly remember all the smells, sounds and emotions that were associated with a split second that now transcends date and time. This is what is most important to me and it’s what I hope my clients and family will gain from the images I take.

Here are five of the techniques I use that you can as well to make sure all those beautiful details are captured:

1. Shoot with a wide aperture

Shoot with a large aperture (also referred to as wide open) to blur the background and achieve focus on your intended subject. I love using this technique, and honestly, I shoot wide open or very close to it for the majority of my images.

I just can’t get enough of baby feet, so for this image I knew I wanted to highlight those adorable toes as well as the texture of the wrinkles on the bottom. In order to draw the viewer’s attention to these details, I set my aperture to f/1.8 so that only the bottom of her foot would be in focus and the couch in the background would be blurred.

black and white photo of baby feet and toes by Jenny Diaz Photography

2. Isolate your subject

If you have the ability to isolate the details you are trying to achieve so that there are no distractions surrounding them, then definitely do it! When I shot this image, my daughter was just learning how to crawl and finally becoming mobile, so I wanted to highlight her crawling stance. Since we had just moved at the time, the background had a lot of boxes and clutter, so I decided to lay on the ground so I could take advantage of all the clean, negative space the floor had to offer. By doing this, the eye is drawn up my daughter’s hands and knees therefor highlighting her ability to crawl.

picture of baby crawling at home by Jenny Diaz Photography

3. Use a telephoto lens

Use a telephoto lens to zoom in on the details and cut out the excess ones you don’t want. As many of us know, children love to be on the move, which can make capturing memorable moments tricky.

When my daughter was sitting in the family room the other day, I noticed an amazing lighting opportunity while I was standing in the kitchen. I didn’t want to interrupt her concentration, so I quickly grabbed my camera that was nearby and decided to use my zoom lens to capture her from a distance so she wouldn’t notice me. This also was beneficial, because our entire living room is surrounded by windows and I didn’t want all that excess light in the background distracting from the light in her eyes.

photo of baby in a costume and holding a pumpkin on Halloween by Jenny Diaz Photography

4. Shoot with intention

Think about what exact details you want to capture before you start shooting. What are the aspects of your subject that are most important to you? Once you figure these out, you can visualize what you are trying to achieve, and execution becomes easier.

I love my daughter’s eyes and long lashes, and also love the way she looks and talks to her reflection in the window. I knew ahead of time I wanted to capture these details during the next opportunity I had, so when the time came, I was able to achieve my image easily and efficiently.

pic of baby looking at her reflection in the window by Jenny Diaz Photography

5. Include the surroundings

Take a step back and shoot with a wide angle lens every now and again. I often become so fixated on the close-up details that I have to remind myself to shoot wide once in a while. Sometimes the details in the bigger picture are what add to the story or enhance your memory more so than the close ones.

I decided to use my wide angle for this image to emphasize the mess that comes with a baby starting solids and learning to feed herself. What I will remember from this image is not how long it took me to clean up, but how proud I was of her independence. Had I shot close-up, the story behind this image may not have come across as strongly. It’s all about balance!

photo of baby feeding herself by Jenny Diaz Photography

I hope these tips will help you the next time you are looking to capture the details in your life!

When I look at photos of days that have passed, seeing the details are what bring me right back to that very moment. Here are 5 techniques I use that you can as well!

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Photography Workflow – Year-End Activities

As a photographer and a photography business owner, I go through a number of activities at the end of each year to close it out, just like many businesses do when performing year-end activities. These activities have become an essential part of my photography workflow, allowing me to continue using a very consistent and reliable method to not only store and archive my images, but also to be ready for future data growth and potential hardware changes. If you have not yet considered year-end activities for your photography, I would recommend to give the below article a read and see if it would suit your workflow. Basically, I have developed a set of procedures that I run on either December 31st, or the first few days of each new year to ensure that my data stays consistent, secure and fully backed up. Most of these procedures highlighted below are related to my current post-processing software of choice, Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, but if you run any other software, you should be able to run through similar steps to make sure that you are set for another year of successful shooting.

1) Lightroom: Catalog and File Synchronization

Throughout the year, I will be making plenty of edits and changes to my existing images when working in Lightroom. During this process, I might also go through some images and physically delete them (mistakes, blurry images, etc). Unfortunately, despite my efforts to keep a consistent Lightroom catalog, this process often leads to images going out of sync – that’s when images in the file system do not fully match the images that are present in the Lightroom catalog. As discussed in detail in our Level 1: Workflow and Post-Processing Course, when running a hybrid file management system, you do have to make sure that your files look good both at file system and Lightroom catalog levels. This way, if I ever want to switch to another post-processing tool to edit my images, I can do so with ease and my Lightroom catalog always looks consistent.

Gladly, Lightroom has built-in tools to make file and catalog synchronization easy. All you have to do, is click on your parent folder structure within Lightroom’s Library module, then click “Synchronize Folder…”:

Lightroom Synchronize Folder

After that, you will see a window just like this one, which scans through your Lightroom catalog for potential inconsistencies:

Lightroom Synchronize Import

As you can see, it looks like I have 167 images that need to be removed from Lightroom (they are no longer in my file system) and four images need to be imported into Lightroom (they are missing in my Lightroom catalog). From here, you can click “Show Missing Photos” that will show you all the missing images (perhaps you want to find them instead of deleting them), or you can click the “Synchronize” button to start syncing your folder. If you want to see all the images that are missing in Lightroom, but present in your file system before synchronization, make sure to select “Show import dialog before importing”. Be warned that if you have a lot of images, selecting this checkbox might take a very long time, since Lightroom needs to rescan every single folder once again. I personally never check this box. Instead, once the import is complete, I simply click on the “Current Import” link under “Catalog” in the Library module, which shows me the images that were imported.

After running through this process, you should have your images fully synchronized between your file system and the Lightroom catalog.

If you run any other software that contains a separate database for your images, you might want to run through a similar tool to ensure that you are working with fully synchronized data.

2) Image Folder Reorganization

The second step of my year-end process is to go through each folder within my image catalog and make sure that images are where they should be. Whichever file management system you end up choosing, you still need to make sure that the files reside where they should be residing and not stored all over the place. Depending on the software you use, this process can be somewhat time consuming, as you need to click through each folder and make sure that you do not have any images that do not belong to that particular folder. If you are a Lightroom user, the process will be quite simple, but still might take some time, especially if you have a lot of images.

When looking through each folder, you can use the built-in filter tools to identify potential images that do not belong. For example, you can use the handy Library Filter to see the dates on which images were captured. In the below screenshot, you can see that I have 892 wedding images from August 28th. However, there is also one image from November 13th, which is most likely something that should not belong in that folder:

Lightroom Filters for Identifying Images

By clicking on November 13th, I can drill down to the image that was most likely moved into this folder by accident:

Lightroom Filters Identified Image

By dragging the image into its correct folder, I was able to quickly take care of this issue and only be left with the images from the wedding.

I would recommend to go through each folder in your image catalog and make sure that you only have the images that should be there. If you don’t use Lightroom, simply use your operating system file browser to preview images – you will need to switch to a thumbnail view to preview your JPEG / RAW files. Often, by just looking at the photos, you should be able to properly organize them.

3) Lightroom: Batch Renaming

Once all the images are in their right places, the next step is to batch rename them. Why is this necessary, you might ask? Well, for me, file names need to make sense when running a hybrid file management system. This way, if I ever need to find an image, I need to be able to quickly identify the following information by just looking at the file names:

  • Year, month and date the image was captured
  • The name of the event, irrespective of where the image is located
  • File sequence number to properly sort images in file system
  • File extension to understand if it is a JPEG, RAW or TIFF image

Since I always rename my images during the import process with appropriate file names (for details, see Level 1 Workflow and Processing course or How to Organize Photos in Lightroom article), I normally don’t need to worry about running this step. However, since both Lola and I work on the same Lightroom catalog, sometimes one of us can either forget to run through the proper import procedure, or perhaps rush and do things quickly for the client without properly running through the correct steps, which can result in incorrect file names. In addition, editing images in Photoshop from Lightroom can yield funky image titles with “Edit” or other words added to each image, potentially messing up the naming structure. So at the end of each year, I go through every single folder and batch rename all images, so that I have all images named consistently.

The easiest way to batch rename images in Lightroom, is to select all images in a folder by first clicking on the folder, then pressing CTRL+A (Command+A on Mac) on the keyboard, which will select all files in a given folder. But before you do that, make sure that you first sort your images by capture time, so that the images don’t get renamed based on whatever sorting method you are using. Go to “View->Sort->Capture Time” and make sure “Ascending” is chosen on the bottom to resort your images based on the date/time the image was captured. From there, all you have to do is press F2, or go to “Library->Rename Photos…” on the menu. You will see a “Rename # Photos” window pop up:

Lightroom Batch Rename

As you can see, I already have a template set up that allows me to mass rename images – all I have to do is type “Custom Text”, which in this case represents the event. To its right, I have a “Start Number”, which is a sequence number for the first image. Lightroom will start with this number and increment sequence numbers for the rest of the images accordingly. If you don’t already have a template set up, check out my template below:

Lightroom Filename Template Editor

Run through each folder and batch rename all the images. If you have previously already named the files properly and this is the second time you are doing it, Lightroom might run into file naming conflicts, resulting in weird sequence numbers. If this ever happens, all you have to do is give it a different name temporarily, and batch rename all the photos again with the correct name. Another method is to give a very high sequence number (like 10,000), then restart the batch rename process with the sequence number 1. Both methods will work well and you won’t lose any files.

4) Lightroom: Optimize Catalog

Now that you have all the images in full sync and the images are correctly named, the next step is to now optimize your Lightroom catalog. Whenever you deal with a lot of batch operations in Lightroom, it is always a good idea to optimize your Lightroom catalog, since things might have moved in the database quite a bit and running optimization will make the database work faster. The process of optimizing a catalog is very simple – just go to “File->Optimize Catalog…” and you will be presented with the following pop-up window:

Lightroom Catalog Optimization

Click “Optimize” and Lightroom will go through the process of optimizing your catalog. Depending on the size of your catalog, it might take some time. Once the catalog is optimized, you will get a message that says “Your catalog has been optimized”.

5) Lightroom: Save All Edits

Did you know that Lightroom has a way to store all your edits within your images or sidecar files, so that if you ever lose your catalog you could still start over and not lose any of the edits? That’s certainly a powerful feature and something you should definitely use. At the end of each year, I make sure to save all changes that I have made in Lightroom to my images for this reason and I recommend you do the same.

While there is a setting in Lightroom Catalog Settings where you can force Lightroom to automatically save all the changes to sidecar / XMP files, I do not recommend using this option, since it slows down Lightroom. You can find this option under “Edit->Catalog Settings…” menu option, within the “Metadata” tab:

Lightroom Automatically Write Changes to XMP

If you keep the “Automatically write changes to XMP” option turned off like I do, make sure to write all the edits into images as part of the year-end activities. To do that, all you have to do is go to the parent folder where your images reside in Lightroom (in my case it is 2016), then press CTRL+A (Command+A in Mac), then press CTRL+S (Command+S in Mac). Or you can go to “Metadata->Save Metadata to Files” in Lightroom:

Lightroom Save Metadata to Files

Lightroom will present the above window. Now keep in mind that this process will take a long time, so arm yourself with a cup of hot coffee or hot chocolate, grab a nice Book (our Landscape Photography eBook would be a good read :)) and get ready to wait…for a long time. Lightroom will go through each image and write changes to either the file directly (in case you use the DNG format) or XMP sidecar files.

After the process completes, all of your edits will be saved, so if you ever happen to lose your catalog, you won’t lose your edits. Now keep in mind that the above process does not save the history – only the latest edits will be preserved!

6) Back Up Lightroom Catalog and Images

The next step is to back up your Lightroom catalog and your images. This step, without a doubt, is the most important one in your list of year-end activities. Running a full backup is important, as it will ensure that your files for the year are in multiple locations and your data is safe. Keep in mind that you should always keep your data in at least 3 different locations per “3-2-1 Backup Rule“, which definitely applies to a photography workflow. If you don’t know where to begin, check out my Photography Backup Workflow article for more details. We have also covered backup in detail in our Workflow and Post-Processing course.

Note: Make sure to close out of Lightroom before backing up your Lightroom catalog!

Since your Lightroom catalog and your images are kept in two separate locations, make sure to back up both. Backing up one without the other is a huge mistake. Even if you choose not to backup your Lightroom catalog, you should always back up your images. While you can start over with a new Lightroom catalog by re-importing images (without losing your edits), there is absolutely no way to restore your RAW files from your Lightroom catalog alone.

7) Test Your Backups

It is absolutely essential to have backups, but backups are only good if they actually work. When was the last time you have actually looked into your backup routine and tried to recover a file? Has it been a while? Perhaps it is now time to test your backups and make sure they work as intended. Start by renaming a folder in your computer (do not delete in case your restore procedure fails), then try to restore backups from your main backup first, then your off-site location. If you store hard drives in a different location, plug each one of them into your computer and make sure that they all still function without any issues. If you have any doubts about off-site storage, it might be a good idea to redo it from scratch, even if it takes a very long time and lots of effort. While onsite backup is something many of us make sure takes place, many of us often neglect off-site backup, sometimes completely. I personally have too much storage to back up into the cloud, but buying a few large capacity drives and dropping them off at a safe deposit box or your friend’s house might be worth the effort, even if you only do it once or twice a year. If you do any commercial work, I would highly recommend to have a robust off-site backup solution!

8) Lightroom: Close the Catalog and Start a New One

Once you are done with all of the above tasks, if your Lightroom and folder structures are organized by year (which I highly recommend), you might consider starting a fresh catalog and closing your current year catalog, making it only available for future exports and edits. From here on, you should not use that catalog for importing images next year or any other year in the future! Unfortunately, there is no way to lock a catalog from further imports in Lightroom, so you will have to remember to only import images in the current year catalog.

Go to “File->New Catalog…” to create a new catalog in Lightroom. Make sure to navigate to the same folder that hosts all your existing Lightroom catalog. I personally store my catalogs in a folder called “Lightroom” (My images are always stored in a folder called “Photos”, so I know right away where to put my Lightroom catalogs):

New Lightroom Catalog

Keep in mind that you do not have to create a folder for the year – Lightroom will do that automatically. All you have to do is type the new year in the “File name” field, just like above. After you click “Create”, Lightroom might ask if you need to back up your catalog. Since you have already done that in the previous step, you don’t need to worry about backing up your catalog again, so you can safely click “Skip this time”.

Your brand new Lightroom catalog for the next year should now be open and ready for import. From now on, you will only be importing images into this catalog!

9) Evaluate Your Current and Future Storage Needs

The next steps are to evaluate the total amount of storage you consumed this past year – this will help you understand your future storage needs and growth. For this task, your file system will be the best way to see how much data you have consumed. If you are a Windows user, all you have to do is click your parent folder and select “Properties”, which should bring up a window similar to this one:

Folder Properties for Storage Needs

As you can see, I consumed a total of 1.45 TB (Terabytes) of storage in 2016. Lightroom shows a total of 35556 images and I ran the above before saving all the changes to sidecar files in Lightroom, since the process took a long time. It has been a pretty busy year for me, but now that I know that I roughly shot close to 1.5 TB in 2016, I can project that I will need about 1.5-2 TB of space in 2017. This means that I need to re-evaluate my storage needs and make sure that I have enough storage for next year. Looking at my Synology DS1815+ (see my detailed review of the Synology DS1815+), I can see that I still have more than half of the 32 TB volume available and my secondary backup with ioSafe 214 (see my detailed ioSafe 214 review) that mirrors my photos is showing 2 TB of space available as well. I am good to go for another year, but after that, I will need to look into expanding my secondary backup the following year. And my offsite backup routine will need to change as well, as I will need to add another large drive to the mix.

Evaluating storage needs is important, because it will help you plan ahead. I have been a big fan of Synology storage arrays for a while now, but I have recently started to look into QNAP’s storage solutions as well, since they have slightly different technology and allow both NAS and DAS connections at the same time. I will soon be evaluating two QNAP storage arrays for my needs and will be writing reviews, which will hopefully help our readers in choosing the right storage solutions for photography needs.

Hope you found the above article useful. If you perform other useful year-end activities not mentioned above, please share in the comments section below!

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Gay Head Lighthouse Overlooking Sweeping Canvas Gallery Wrap 27×18 Photo On Canvas

Gay Head Lighthouse Overlooking Sweeping Canvas Gallery Wrap 27×18 Photo On Canvas


Gay Head lighthouse overlooking sweeping” is an art print by Alfred Eisenstaedt from The Life Picture Collection. Get photo prints of “Gay Head lighthouse overlooking sweeping” in a variety of frames, styles, and materials. Photographer Bio Alfred Eisenstaedt (1898-1995), or Eisie to those who knew him, received his first camera as a gift from his uncle at 14, a few years after moving to Berlin from Poland with his family. At 17, he was drafted to the German army. His interest in photography blossomed while recovering from a shrapnel wound. He became a regular at museums, studying light and composition. By 31, he was a full-time photographer. In 1933 he was sent to Italy where he shot the first meeting between Hitler and Mussolini. Two years later, when Hitler came to power, Eisie immigrated to America. Soon after arriving in New York, he was hired along with three other photographers-Margaret Bourke-White, Thomas McAvoy and Peter Stackpole-by Time Inc. founder Henry Luce for a secret start-up venture known as “Project X.” Six months later, Life magazine premiered on November 23, 1936. The first issue sold for 10 cents and featured five pages of Eisie’s pictures. His most famous photo was the kiss in Times Square on V-J day, about which he said, “I was running along the street grabbing any and every girl in sight. Whether she was a grandmother, stout, thin, old, didn’t make any difference. None of the pictures that were possible pleased me. Then, suddenly in a flash I saw something white being grabbed. I turned and clicked the moment the sailor kissed the nurse.” Over his career, Eisie shot a total of nearly 100 covers for Life magazine and some 10,000 prints. The Life Picture Collection From one of the most iconic magazines ever to hit the shelves comes The Life Collection – an archive of some of the most recognizable imagery of the 20th Century. Documenting events in politics, culture, celebrity, the arts and the American experience, these compelling and provocative photographs include the works of some of the greatest photographers capturing some of the greatest moments in history.

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Gene Krupa Aluminum Mounted 20×25 Photo On Aluminum

Gene Krupa Aluminum Mounted 20×25 Photo On Aluminum


Gene Krupa” is an art print by Gjon Mili from the Masters collection. Get photo prints of “Gene Krupa” in a variety of frames, styles, and materials. Photographer Bio Emigrating to the United States from Albania in 1923, Gjon Mili is regarded as the first photographer to use electronic flash and stroboscopic light to create photographs outside of a scientific context. A true pioneer of the artform, Mili’s photographs of dancers, athletes, and pictures or performances have shaped our understanding of how movement too rapid or too complex for the eye to discern is captured in the still image. Mili’s career as a photographer for Life Magazine spanned four decades and saw the publication of thousands of his photographs, taking him around the world; from collaborations with Pablo Picasso, to the incarceration of Adolph Eichmann, to original photos from Broadway plays.

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